Rockland Auto

Buying Guide

Vehicle Inspection Checklist

Complete checklist to systematically inspect a used car before making an offer. Takes 15–20 minutes to complete.

15 min read
Updated October 2026

Exterior Inspection (5 minutes)

  • Overall condition: Walk around the car. Does it look well-maintained? Any obvious damage?
  • Paint and rust: Look for rust bubbles, areas of mismatched paint (sign of repainting), or excessive corrosion.
  • Dents and scratches: Take photos of any damage. Deep dents or scratches suggest poor care or accident history.
  • Glass and lights: Check for cracks in windows, mirrors. Test all lights (headlights, tail lights, brake lights, indicators).
  • Trim and bumpers: Look for broken trim, cracked bumpers, or signs of impact.
  • Doors and locks: Open/close all doors smoothly? Do locks work? Any stuck hinges?

Tires and Suspension (3 minutes)

  • Tire tread: Place a coin into the tread. If you can see the top of the coin, tread is too low. Minimum 2mm depth required by law.
  • Tire wear pattern: Even wear across all tires = good. Uneven wear (inner or outer edges worn more) = suspension or alignment problems.
  • Tire age: Check sidewall for manufacture date (week/year). Tires older than 6 years should be replaced.
  • Spare tire: Check if spare is included and in good condition.
  • Suspension: Push down on car's corners. It should bounce 2–3 times then settle. Excessive bouncing = worn suspension.

Interior Inspection (4 minutes)

  • Seats and upholstery: Check for tears, stains, or excessive wear. Leather cracking? Fabric fading?
  • Dashboard: Look for cracks, peeling, or damage. Test all buttons (AC, heater, wipers, lights).
  • Steering wheel: Check for wear or damage. Should be smooth to turn with no grinding noises.
  • Air conditioning: Turn on A/C. Does it blow cold air? After 20 seconds should be noticeably cold.
  • Windows and locks: Test all windowsβ€”should move smoothly. Central locking should work from driver's door.
  • Warning lights: Check dashboard. Are any warning lights on? Red warning lights = potential problems.
  • Odometer: Check mileage against service records. Large jumps suggest it hasn't been serviced regularly.

Engine Bay Inspection (4 minutes)

πŸ’‘ Note: Inspect with engine cold. Never open radiator cap when engine is hot.

  • Oil level and color: Pull dipstick. Oil should reach "full" mark. Color should be golden/brown, not black or milky.
  • Coolant level and color: Check expansion tank (not radiator). Coolant should be green, pink, or orange. Milky = internal leak.
  • Hoses and connections: Look for leaks, cracks, or loose connections. Squeeze hoses gentlyβ€”should be firm, not brittle.
  • Battery: Check for corrosion (white/blue crusty deposits). Battery should be secure. Check age on label.
  • Engine cleanliness: Very dirty engine = poor maintenance. Some dirt is normal.
  • Leaks: Look underneath engine for oil stains or leaks. Small drips acceptable, pools = problem.

Test Drive (5 minutes)

  • Starting: Engine should start smoothly without excessive cranking. No grinding noises.
  • Idling: Engine should idle smoothly without shaking. Check for unusual sounds or smells.
  • Acceleration: Gradual acceleration should feel smooth. No hesitation, jerking, or loss of power.
  • Braking: Brake response should be firm and immediate. No soft pedal or grinding sounds.
  • Steering: Steering should respond smoothly. No pulling to one side. No excessive play.
  • Transmission: Smooth gear shifts (manual or automatic). No slipping or grinding.
  • Unusual noises: Listen for knocking, squealing, grinding, or rattling. Identify source if present.
  • Smells: Any burning, sweet, or fuel smells? These indicate problems.

Documentation Verification (2 minutes)

  • VIN Match: Compare VIN on log book with:
    • β€’ Chassis plate (usually on driver's door jamb)
    • β€’ Engine block
    • β€’ Insurance certificate
    All should match exactly.
  • Mileage consistency: Compare odometer reading with service records. Should be consistent progression.
  • Service history: Review service records. Should show regular oil changes (every 5,000–10,000 km).
  • Ownership history: How many previous owners? Ownership changes should match log book entries.

Red Flags: Walk Away Immediately If You Notice:

  • 🚫 VIN mismatch (likely stolen or re-badged vehicle)
  • 🚫 Milky coolant or oil (engine internal damage)
  • 🚫 Heavy oil leaks or active dripping
  • 🚫 Grinding sounds during braking
  • 🚫 Engine hesitation or loss of power
  • 🚫 Transmission slipping or rough shifts
  • 🚫 Steering pulls strongly to one side
  • 🚫 Dashboard warning lights that won't turn off
  • 🚫 Odometer mismatch with service records (odometer fraud)
  • 🚫 Large rust areas or structural damage

Quick Scoring System

Rate the vehicle on a 1–10 scale for each category:

8–10 = Excellent condition
6–7 = Good condition (minor wear expected)
4–5 = Fair condition (needs repairs, negotiate price down)
Below 4 = Poor condition (walk away unless heavily discounted)

When to Hire a Professional Mechanic

Consider hiring an independent mechanic (KES 3,000–5,000) if:

  • Car costs above KES 2 million
  • High mileage (above 150,000 km)
  • You noticed multiple issues during inspection
  • Seller won't let you get pre-purchase inspection
  • You're unsure about your mechanical knowledge

Ready to start your inspection?

Download and print this checklist, or keep it on your phone during the inspection.

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